What does Trafficated mean?

Photos by Kjell & Tim.

Cook's Bay in Moorea.

        Once again me and Tim were to follow in Capatain Cooks footsteps. In the last letter i told you that we went to Venus point to see where he worked but now we wanted to see where he anchored, which for me is far more interesting. The destination was set to Cook's Bay in Moorea. Moorea is only 15 Nm away from us and normally one should be able to sail there in about 4 houers but this is the hurricane season and the weather is not easy at all. Even though there are no hurricanes here right now the weathere still goes nuts (all the time).

     Sailing over went fine, we sailed in great conditiones for the first ten miles and then had a little rain for the last five but for this season it was great. Coming back was a different story all together. As soon as we came throught the reef opening and turned starboard the waves and the wind hit us. We had over 20 knots of wind and great big waves coming straingt from where we wanted to go. I seriously considered going back to anchor in the bay but knowing that it would probably be like this for the rest of the week i decided to go on. I told Tim that this was completly normal and of course he did not belive me, well at least he was calm and not afraid. We had to use the engine for the whole trip back to Papeete. The first third of the trip before we could turn south and go into the channel between the islands took two thirds of the time. If i was not motoring but sailing as i usually am this would have been one of the worst sails i have had on the entire trip.

     Anchoring in Moorea outside Cooks bay was interesting too. We had been told to go left right after the reef entrance and anchor in about 4 meteres of water on a patch on sand. We thought we found it right away but as always what comes too easy is never right. Befor we knew it the dept sounder was showing 2 meters (0,8 under the keel) and the 'anchorage' was studded with rocks just below the surface. Reverse, full speed and back up. A little further to the left we found the spot and anchored in chrystal cleer water. One morning i discovered that i had lost a little shiny pice the sice of a 5 kroner or a quarter during the night. Since it was not on deck it was obvious that it had fallen in the water. This is how clear the water is, i found it in one minute sitting in about 3,5 meters of water and i would have found it again. Every time i went into the water in Moorea i had seen a ray so the day i did not i got a little mad and had to swim for an extra two minutes so i would not break my perfect record. Well i did not see the ray but the reason was simple, there was a white tip shark swimming around and they eat rays so i decided that my record should stand and i should get out of the water before the shark thinks i am a ray.    :-)

     After beeing anchored by the reef for two days it was time to move the boat inside the bay and wake up to the splendid view of the mountains in this walley. As the swimming pool anchorage by the reef had its beaty under the water this place had it above. Spending time here was great. The view from the boat was spectacular and kind of reminded me of Norway on that One hot day in the middel of july only here is was an all day, every day experience.

     Somwere we heard a rumour that on shore by one of the small hotel/lodging places ther were an American in his early 70's inviting people to a bring youer own booze party every day from 5 to 7. As we learned he was a great man. He came here in 1961 and together with friends he built hotels and farmed. He was chrystal clear and very, very funny. We went to this place three times and besides the one wednesday when it was a free dance show we got to listen to this interesting man and his storys. Here we also met a bunch of great american tourists. Thank you all for a great time.

  The Jungle Expedition (ended when the mosquitos came)

Kjell O. Stave & Tim Logue

'Anchor Dram'